How Can We Dress Our Children Sustainably?
With the rapid rate at which children grow, it can be daunting to find environmentally friendly wardrobes for them. Why is this and what can we do about it?
There is enough clothing currently on the planet to clothe the next six generations of people, according to the British Fashion Council. This is only on track to worsen, with analysis by Statista finding that by 2029, the volume of clothing consumed globally will increase by 5% to 198.4 billion units. It is near-universally acknowledged that this is wholly unsustainable. However, in discourse around clothing and sustainability, one sector is often overlooked— childrenswear. The rapid growth of children means that the lifecycle of their clothes is markedly shorter than that of the rest of us. “Children grow seven sizes in their first two years,” writes Mario Ryan Yasin in the mission statement for Petit Pli, his childrenswear label which transports Yasin’s engineering background to create pleated garments that “grow” with the wearer. Where does this leave parents when there are ever-growing expectations to be more considerate in our consumption habits? When the pressures of life— financial, professional, social— are all caving in? When there is only time for the easy option?There are many brands, just like Yasin’s Petit Pli, employing alternative practices to offer more sustainable options to parents. Frugi, started in 2004 by Lucy and Kurt Jewson out of a need for clothes that fit over their son’s cloth nappies, offers clothing made from organic cotton and recycled polyester, as well as a free recycling service. They have also utilised extendable cuffs and sleeves to allow garments to stretch between the six- and 12-month marks. In 2021, London-based Korean designer Regina Pyo similarly extended her catalogue to childrenswear due to her difficulties finding high-quality, eco-friendly clothes for her son. Pyo exclusively uses organic, recycled and upcycled materials for this. Swedish label Polarn O. Pryet, or POP, won the Best Circularity Initiative award at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards in 2023 for their commitment to the use of organic cotton, recycled polyester and deadstock from prior collections to craft their products. With their aim to have each of their garments be worn by at least three children, they also offer a free repair service as well as a resale platform. These brands must be admired for their firm belief in tackling the climate emergency through creative thinking and action. Where the issue lies with the clothing offered by these companies is that they’re just not accessible. Why would a parent fork out £45 on a t-shirt from Petit Pli when a pack of five from George at Asda is £12? (Whilst Petit Pli’s products are certainly an investment, it’s an investment many parents can’t afford to make in the first place). Or spend £65 on a Rejina Pyo dress if M&S have similar for £14?
Every parent in the country is well aware of the impact that the cost-of-living crisis is having on their household finances. The latest data on household spending by the Office for National Statistics (ONS) saw 56% of adults acknowledge a monthly increase in their cost-of-living, with Action for Children estimating that one in five households with children— about 1.5 million— are in “serious financial difficulties”. Where does sustainability come into account for parents when these stresses loom? “Sustainability is a consideration but not top of the list,” said Jane Parry, mother of a 13-year-old daughter, “Price is top.” Kim Elmy-Hughes, mum to two boys aged 12 and 10, explained, “I’d say 50/50 depending on how desperate I am. It’s a bonus if it is sustainable though.”
One traditional solution that would minimise the ecological impact of the child’s wardrobe has been systems of hand-me-downs among communities. Jo Cook, head designer at Norlha and mum of three, emphasised the importance of this in attaining her children’s garbs. “I’ve been given so many things for our children,” she noted, “Everyone wants to find a home for their baby clothes.” Cook finds herself in a very fortunate position in this regard. For many other parents, this disintegration of the social contract has meant the hand-me-down system can’t be relied upon in times of need. “Parental networks have changed,” observed founder and CEO of second-hand retail platform Wunder Duds, Lyndsey Diamond, “With busier schedules, smaller social circles and families moving around globally for work, parents don’t always have the same hand-me-down networks previous generations did.” There is certainly appetite for a revival, though As Elmy-Hughes explained when I asked about these networks, “It’s difficult as I don’t know other parents to set one up. But if there was one, I’d join.” The necessity to work for nearly all parents to provide for their children adds so much pressure and this mental taxation— of which families are impacted nearly doubly— is impacting opportunities for social networking. Action for Children also reported that 32% of families have had to see friends and family less as a result of the cost-of-living and 34% have cut down on other pastimes. If the spaces for parents to unwind are getting fewer and further, the pressure to live sustainably can only make things harder. Whilst a necessary pressure, the sector should be driven by an ethos to reach parents with simpler, accessible options.
As with most other sectors of the fashion industry, the post-Covid economic downturn has taken its toll. A report by GlobalData identified particular trepidation for the childrenswear sector, with growth expected to halve from 6% in 2023 to 3% in 2027. So, it isn’t surprising that less than a fifth of fashion executives consider sustainability a top-three priority for this year. This trend is in line with wider trends across the West where the Overton window on environmental issues is shifting to the right with the triumph of movements like Germany’s AfD, the Netherlands’ Freedom Party and, of course, America’s second Trump administration. If a more environmentally friendly business model doesn’t look attractive for growth, those with positions of power are looking less and less likely to aid consumers in making more conscious purchases. Coupled with plummeting birth rates across the world— the fertility rate in England & Wales is its lowest since records began— the outlook is looking bleak.
Whilst GlobalData does acknowledge that the main driver for the kidswear economy is this necessary cycle of rapid replacement, they also ensure to highlight that brands will only succeed over the next few years if they innovate sustainably. It must also be a priority to incorporate a more circular system of consumption. “Brands that rely on volume- and trend-based sales are the ones most at risk,” remarked Diamond, “whereas those that invest in longevity and circularity will thrive in this changing landscape.”
It doesn’t have to be a trade-off of financial success for ecologically positive production and consumption. The growth in popularity for the second-hand and rental sectors evidence this. A spur of interest in pre-loved shopping has emerged due to the rise of simple to use platforms, like Depop and Vinted, and increased exposure on social platforms, such as Instagram TikTok, where users can get tips to improve their search. GlobalData’s analysis suggests that, by 2026, the size of the childrenswear resale and rental markets will rise by 27% and 53%, respectively. This is largely driven by the growing number of concerned parents hoping to protect the planet for the next generations to enjoy.
Diamond’s Wunder Duds grew from the birth of her children which saw her employ her more than 25 years’ experience as a fashion designer to contribute towards a more sustainable childrenswear system. “I saw an opportunity to bring my design expertise into a more circular model,” said Diamond, “One that keeps quality clothes in circulation while helping parents access affordable, stylish and sustainable options.” Operating a bit like Vinted, Wunder Duds allows users to send them their old clothing to sell and earn 60% of the final sale price. The Octopus Club, started by Ana Estrougo in 2020, offers a similar service where users can buy and sell, as well as donate clothing. Izzie Eriksen’s ApparelXchange began in 2018 and is available to shop at both in-person (at their store in Glasgow’s Southside) and online. They also run workshops out of their store on community climate activism. Prices at all of these stores match those of George, M&S and Next, leaders of the sector.
Since appearing on Dragons’ Den in 2022 and securing a £140,000 investment from Deborah Meaden and Stephen Bartlett, Charlotte Morley has led the charge in children’s rentals with her service, The Little Loop. Boasting a “shared wardrobe” of over 10,000 items, Morley hoped to step in where life has made sustainable dressing more challenging. “The informal hand-me-down system is increasingly failing to work beyond the first few years of a child’s life,” Morley told Raconteur. The brand has continued to grow since Dragons’ Den, establishing a partnership with John Lewis in May 2022 that extended to a concession stand in their Oxford Street flagship in London. Shoppers can pick up pre-owned clothes up to age six from £5 and collect bags to swap their unwanted clothing for £5 online credit.
There are still many obstacles stopping a transition to a circular mode of dressing our children— from inconvenience to the breakdown of parental networks to the sheer lack of will to change within the industry. “To overcome these barriers, resale needs to be as convenient and accessible as mainstream retail,” asserts Diamond. It is leaders like Diamond and Morley, who have made it their mission to root their sustainable practices in community and accessibility, that can offer a solution.